Receiving an invitation to attend Bass Phillip's launch at Church Street Enoteca was an offer to good to refuse.
On tasting tonight, 17 wines over 5 courses which include Pinot Rosé, Chardonnay, Gamay and Pinot Noir.
Before dinner we mingled with glasses of 2004 and 2007 Pinot Rosé
and enjoyed spoon starters of Bultarra saltbush lamb tartare with wild mushrooms
Before long it was time to take our seats in the dining room
Wines for the first course - left to right - 2001 Estate Chardonnay, 2004 Estate Chardonnay, 2007 Estate Chardonnay, 2007 Premium Chardonnay
2001/2004 had full malolactic fermentation (MLF) while the 2007 had inhibited MLF. The 2007 Premium was bottled 4 weeks ago while the 2007 Estate was bottled in (I think) May.
Tasting as is without food, we would both pick the 2001 simply because it had all those wonderful rich, buttery and creamy characteristics that we like to see in Chardonnay. The 2007 Premium had a richness of fruit but with a mineral bite to it.
It is interesting, in the course of tasting through the night, to observe the effects of the vineyards movement into bio-dynamic viticulture on the wines in the 2007 vintage. As Philip Jones puts it, the wines are much more vibrant in the bottle.
Roasted quail and shiitake mushroom terrine, duck foie gras, roasted scallop, cauliflower puree
While we loved the 2001 to drink by itself, it didn't seem to work when combined with the flavours of this particular dish and we both found that the 2007 a much better match.
Wines for the second course - left to right - 2004 Gamay, 2007 Gamay, 2007 Crown Prince Pinot Noir
All three of these wines were rich in fruit flavours with the 2004 also showing mineral elements.
Hand prepared guanciale and prosciutto, Joselito Jamon Iberico Gran Riserva, house made rye, Manjimup truffle
With these richly flavoured reds, no better match is found then in the company of cured meats - meltingly soft guanciale, supple prosciutto and a sweet nutty jamon. The toasted slices of rye were daubed in manjimup truffle butter.
Wines for the third Course - left to right - 2004 Estate Pinot Noir, 2005 Estate Pinot Noir, 2006 Estate Pinot Noir, 2007 Estate Pinot Noir
The 2004 is described as having subtle feminine flavours while the 2005 has higher tannins and minerals. 2006 is combination of intense fruit and long tannins while once again, the 2007 has a vibrancy to its fruit.
Roasted duck breast, confit duck shank, celeriac puree, porcini, orange
Wines for the Cheese Course - left to right - 2003 Premium Pinot Noir, 2004 Premium Pinot Noir, 2007 Premium Pinot Noir, "Mystery Wine"
2003 had ripe plum flavours while the 2004 exhibited a gentler and more subtle palette but with more lingering flavours. The 2007 was bottled only 10 days ago but like the rest of the 2007 vintage was very much showing good fruit flavours.
Touree de l'Aubier, apple jelly, rosemary lavosh
The final course of the evening is cheese - Touree de l'Aubier - a surface-ripened washed rind cheese made with pasteurised cows milk from the Normandy region of France. An absolutely spectacular cheese.
If you are reading this and thinking phooey I missed out, well don't despair - this dinner is being repeated on Monday 4th August so contact the restaurant and make a booking.
The details:
Church Street Enoteca
527 Church Street, Richmond
Phone: 9428 7898
Restaurant Open:
Lunch: Monday-Friday 12-3pm
Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm to late
Web:
www.churchstenoteca.com.au
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Event @ Church Street Enoteca
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Lunch @ Les Boucheries Parisiennes
On a cold and rainy Sunday, we've sought comfort in the company of some good French food.
As we are close to the kitchen, Paalo captures a candid shot of our meals
For starters:
I've chosen the scallops with mushroom risotto - a dish that we both loved on our previous visit.
Seriously good scallops, barely cooked to retain their tenderness, sweet and succulent they would be perfect just by themselves. However they have a wonderful companion in the form of a creamy mushroom risotto.
Paalo opts for the Crispy skinned pork belly served with a quince and sultana chutney and an Apple reduction
With our meals we are thoroughly enjoying this bottle of 2005 Alto Moncayo Veraton Grenache.
A little treat from the kitchen is next - a sampling of their duck liver parfait with a fig and sultana chutney. An incredibly light texture combines with that distinctive flavour of duck liver. The hint of smoky cinnamon in the chutney and the sweetness of the figs helps round out the flavours.
For the mains:
we order the Beef Rib Eye for Two (the photo shows one plate) and it is served with slow roasted cherry tomatoes and shallots. A choice of sauces are available, red wine or béarnaise - we both went for the béarnaise
With a choice of pommes frites or Truffle Mashed Potatoes - the mashed potatoes easily won that battle.
We also ordered a side of greens beans served with almond butter.
An excellent piece of beef - tender, juicy, flavoursome and cooked beautifully rare.
With the rain still coming down we extend our stay with dessert
I have the French Apple Tart - a thin circle of buttery pastry is topped with equally thin slices of apple. Baked until golden it is served with vanilla ice cream and dried apple slices.
Paalo enjoys the blackberry, rhubarb and apple crumble topped with a hazelnut crust and served with vanilla mascarpone. Baked in its staub pot it arrives hot from the oven.
A highly satisfying way to spend Sunday - good food, good wine and good conversation.
The details:
Les Boucheries Parisiennes
268 Toorak Road, South Yarra
Phone: (03) 8256 1636
Open:
Lunch - Tuesday to Sunday: 12pm to 2.30pm
Dinner - Tuesday to Saturday: 6pm to late
Web:
www.lesboucheries.com.au
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Lunch @ Enoteca Sileno
Time for our Italian fix.
As always we begin with an assortment of assaggini
Fritelle de baccala con insalata di puntarelle di campo - salt cod and potato fritters with a salad of field chicory
Assaggini of the day - pork tongue with mustard fruit, Prosciutto San Daniele with parmigiano and kingfish sashimi
Pesciolini fritti in carpione - Fried Whitebait in Scarpece
Onto mains:
Paalo ordered the Venison loin with braised vegetables and local Apollo Bay Truffles. These are some of the best local truffles we've enjoyed - highly aromatic with a good depth of flavour
I go the simple route and enjoy a traditional Veal Costoletta - crumbed veal rib eye
There's also time to enjoy some cheese - gorgonzola and tallegio
and to follow dessert:
I have the Diplomatica con cremosa al cioccolato - chocolate and nut cake served with soft dark chocolate cream. The cake was dense and soft and quite rich.
Paalo has a much lighter option - Tortino di cioccolato al caffee colante - a soft-centered coffee and dark chocolate pudding.
The details:
Enoteca Sileno
920 Lygon Street, Carlton
corner of Lygon and Richardson Streets
Phone: 03 9389 7070
Open:
Monday: 8am - 4pm
Tuesday - Saturday: 8am - Late
Sunday: 9am - 5pm
web:
http://www.enoteca.com.au
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Event @ Interlude
I'll get the annoying part of the evening out of the way first. When booking we were told "6.30 for 7" and most of the diners tonight can tell the time and arrived when they should except for a self-absorbed 10 who decided it was far more important to be fashionably late and arrived close to 7.20pm. If that wasn't bad enough these people during the course of the night proved to also be loud and obnoxious - I personally don't believe banging your cutlery together is appropriate behaviour for adults - perhaps it is more indicative of their mental age of two.
The restaurant was in a difficult position, they couldn't start as scheduled and the room was left drinking sparkling water. Unfortunately, the delay also affected the scheduling of the courses with a way too long break between the amuse and the first course. Maybe they should apply "theatre rules" in the future - don't show up on time, you get locked out.
With that said, time for the food.
we were told to eat these from left to right and first up are a white chocolate, lycee and caviar bonbon - next was a breaded cube of macaroni and cheese and lastly, a beetroot surprise.
The beetroot surprise was a liquid beetroot filled raviolo topped with braised mince that you must place fully in your mouth before biting - it's quite the surprise as the beetroot shoots out.
Because of the tardy ones there's a long gap between the amuse and the first course.
Olive our Twist
Served with NV Boizel Brut Reserve
The Brut Reserve is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (30:55:15) and was served from Magnums. This is very much a perfect aperitif style champagne and easily handles the robust salty flavours of the dish.
Olive our Twist is a dish we've enjoyed before - a twisted strand of olive jelly, studded with olive oil shards, dots of roasted capsicum and olive paste, toasted herbs crumbs, rosemary and anchovies.
Alphabet Soup
Served with NV Drappier Val des Demoiselles Brut Rosé
This is a 100% Pinot Noir Champagne sourced from one plot, the Val des Demoiselles. It is made using the traditional saignée method which we were told is rather unusual these days. Most Rosé is made by adding red wine to the champagne to ensure a constant colour. With the saignée method the colour is obtained by leaving the skins in contact with the juice - unfortunately this makes getting a "brand" colour difficult.
The Alphabet Soup is a signature dish and as it was served on a glass plate we could now work out what was holding the letters in place - they are set on a low-temperature parmesan jelly that dissolves as the rich tomato broth is poured over. Interestingly, the letters harden on contact with the hot broth.
Interlude Sushi
NV Agrapart Terroir de Champagne Blanc de Blancs
A 100% chardonnay champagne that showcases the mineral elements of its regions soil.
Pork, Smoked Potato, Truffle
NV Jacquesson No.732
Lighting isn't easy so please don't complain about the photos - Paalo has cleverly resorted to using the menu to direct light onto our pre-desssert
A lovely mouthful of mint ice-cream on a buttery berry friand
Rhubarb Crumble and Custard
NV Duval-Leroy Pink Lady Dry
Interlude
211 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy
Phone: 9415 7300
Open:
Lunch: Tuesday to Friday 12-3pm
Dinner: Monday to Saturday 6.30pm to late
web:
www.interlude.com.au
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Dinner @ Koots
I am loving this "truffle war". There's truffle on the menu at Koots!
No guessing that this was my starter. This is such a good way of serving truffle and really helps to show the truffle at its best. There's truffle slices on the inside surrounded by that still soft egg and the ones on the top are warmed by the omelette to help release their aromas - the scent as it is placed before you just makes you want to smile.
Paalo opted for the twice-baked Fourme d’Ambert blue cheese soufflé with caramelized shallots. Fabulous flavour and feather light.
For mains
Paalo chose the Roasted barramundi fillet with a king brown mushroom carpaccio & celeriac purée. The mushrooms had been slightly pickled.
I had the slow braise of Milawa free-range chicken with autumn mushrooms, chestnuts, scallions and glazed carrots. Tender meat, excellent flavours - I was particularly enamoured with the chestnuts and how well they combined with the mushrooms.
which consisted of the traditional Cannelés Bordelais, paper thin tuilles and a still warm madeleine that was devilishly good.
Koots
479 Glenferrie Road
Kooyong
Saturday, July 12, 2008
Lunch @ Il Bacaro
Quite a few specials augmented the regular menu - some of which found their way into our starters
Paalo had two of the specials - the Brushetta of the day - this was topped with salted cod and potato puree and roasted capsicum
and the grilled Coffin Bay Scallops on the shell with garlic, thyme and celeriac puree
I also have one of the specials - freshly made Tagliatelle with oven roasted wild onions, cherry tomatoes, goat cheese and wagyu slices that have just been drapped over the top of the pasta.
For mains:
Paalo has the braised Abacchio (lamb) finished with a generous serving of truffle pecorino
I have the Grappa marinated suckling pig served with roasted baby fennel and braised chicory. This was deliriously good pork and you can see how small the pig was by the size of its ribs - it is a true suckling pig. The skin was also crisp without being too crunchy - it doesn't shatter when you bite into it.
We also ordered a side of baby beans with goat cheese and olives.
We decide to finish our wine with cheese
we choose taleggio - it's served with bread, muscat grapes on the vine, sliced pear and a fig conserve.
Finally, time for dessert
Paalo couldn't go past the Pannacotta with rosewater soaked donuts
and I ordered the chocolate and hazelnut tart with poached pear and mascarpone ice cream. The tart was ultra light which was a pleasant surprise.
The details:
Il Bàcaro
168 Little Collins Street, Melbourne
Phone: 9654 6778
Web
www.ilbacaro.com.au
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Lunch @ Interlude
Shh, don't tell anyone but we've ducked out for lunch.
Two options are available - limited choice a la carte (2 courses/$30 3 courses/$40 with a glass of Punt Road Wine) and a five course tasting menu. Just to be different we've opted for the a la carte option.
We both couldn't go past this dish for our starter:
Wagyu Tartare, Smoking Cinnamon
A dish where its presentation equals its taste. The cinnamon smoke doesn't flavour the beef, it rather just perfumes the air. The cubes in the tartare are fried potato and a savoury jelly.
A little treat courtesy of the kitchen comes out next
Pumpkin Risotto with Perigord Truffle - even without the truffle this would be a perfect risotto. Creamy rice and sweet pumpkin this is extremely moorish.
Onto mains:
Paalo has the slow cooked lamb shank, roasted potato, brussels sprout leaves, celeriac puree. The meat just dropped off the bone, lusciously tender and full of flavour that only time can bring out.
I have the Venison loin, red cabbage puree, roasted pear and potato. The red cabbage puree is an eye-opener especially with it's underlying vinegary tang.
The venison certainly deserves a close up - you really couldn't prepare it any better than this.
Another lovely surprise from the kitchen, this time Pierre has a pre-dessert for us to enjoy
Rye bread tuille, pear sorbet and cinnamon meringue - this has all the flavours of a pear crumble and brings all those elements of comfort you would associate with this combination of flavours.
We both ordered the same dessert which was the broken plum friand with pistachio, jelly and creme anglaise. 
Once again, it is another stunning dessert from Pierre. Seriously we must come here for the dessert degustation!
Petit Fours - balsamic meringue, bergamot truffle, caraway marshmallow, chocolate coated griottines
The details:
Interlude
211 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy
Phone: 9415 7300
Open:
Lunch: Tuesday to Friday 12-3pm
Dinner: Monday to Saturday 6.30pm to late
web:
www.interlude.com.au
Friday, July 04, 2008
Dinner @ Church Street Enoteca
It's the 4th of July - a good enough excuse to go out for dinner.
There's always something new to try on the menu but there's the added bonus tonight - truffles! As Alastair informs us, there's a truffle war on at the moment. Hurrah! Three cheers for the truffle war. With so many truffles entering the market from Tasmania, Victoria and WA, the laws of supply and demand come into play and we the consumers are the winners.
Tonight, the restaurant is offering a $15 truffle supplement - truffles will be added to whatever course you like. I really don't have to say that we took up this offer - opting for a double dose of truffles.
To get us started, the kitchen sends out a little treat
wafer thin slices of in-house made speck served on their own rye bread. I just love the smokiness you get combined with the moistness of the flesh.
Onto starters:
I have one of the specials of the day - poached veal served with prosciutto wrapped pin-wheels
Paalo has the Beetroot Carpaccio with whipped Meredith dairy goats cheese, aged balsamic and horseradish.
Onto mains:
This is one of the serves of truffle - which is destined for Paalo's main.
Paalo ordered the Bisteca Fiorentina and here it is with the truffles placed upon it. The heat of the streak really brings out the truffle aroma - this is one of the better ways of enjoying truffle.
I have a truffle free main of roasted duck breast rolled with prosciutto and foie gras, duck leg cannelloni and parnsip puree.
We also order the side dish of wild and gathered mushrooms that has been topped with another serving of truffle. If you only order one serving of truffle then opt for this one. Unlike the beef this came out with the truffle scattered over the top and so had really started giving off those great aromas.
For dessert -
It's textures of chocolate for me and vanilla bean pannacotta for him.
My advice - hurry in for truffles while the war is on! One world of advice - please don't eat them off the plate put them on your food and let them get some temperature into them.
The details:
Church Street Enoteca
527 Church Street, Richmond
Phone: 9428 7898
Restaurant Open:
Lunch: Monday-Friday 12-3pm
Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm to late
Web:
www.churchstenoteca.com.au
