Saturday, June 28, 2008

Lunch @ Eleonore's Restaurant

After our successful trip into the "country" a few weeks back, Paalo is in a traveling mood. We aren't venturing quite as far, just the Yarra Valley. Initially we had plans to possibly revisit Cucina Rossa at Bianchet but the rather large sign heralding "Friday Curry Night" and "Devonshire Teas" really put us off that idea. Our next choice was closed so third time being the trick, we found ourselves at Chateau Yering.


There are two dining options here and we opted for their signature restaurant - Eleonore's.

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Not a bad view to enjoy during your meal. It is a pretty impressive dining room -

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more so when you realise it was built only 11 years ago!

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It certainly was built in a sympathetic style to the original home.

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We both enjoyed the oven fresh olive rolls served wonderfully warm.

For starters:

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My choice: Crisp parcel of Persian Fetta, shaved beetroot and black truffle, beetroot jelly

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We are in the country so the serves are generous. This is a dish you'd gladly eat anywhere. You first get that wonderful aroma of white perigord truffle, cut through the crisp warka pastry and you find a luscious semi-soft ooze of persian fetta, a mix of creaminess and saltiness. The beetroot in its various forms, raw, jelly and paste highlights different elements of the beetroot -its earthiness, sweetness and tang.


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Paalo's choice: Tataki of Wagyu, Wasabi panna cotta, crisp sushi rice, black bean vinaigrette, beer air.

When Paalo's eyes rolled back into his head as he took the first bite of wagyu I knew it just had to be good.

Onto mains:

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My Choice: Sirloin on the Bone with Potato dauphinoise, bearnaise sauce and forest mushrooms.

Another excellent piece of beef - a classic combination of flavours.


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Paalo's choice: Slow cooked Lamb Loin, Lambs fry and onion pie, carrot puree and rosemary jus


We probably didn't need it but we ordered the cheese course to share:

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Once again, it's a country sized serve!

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If we didn't need to have the cheese, we really didn't need to have dessert

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Paalo's Choice: Steamed Lemon Pudding; hot vanilla anglaise, grand marnier creme, lime jellies, kaffir lime ice-cream


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My choice: Roast Hazelnut Torte - feuilletine crunch base, caramel mousse centre, mocha marshmallow, coffee and kahlua ice-cream


We've been really impressed with the quality of the dishes that we've had today and will certainly be adding this to our must revisit list.

The details:

Eleonore's Restaurant at Chateau Yering
42 Melba Highway, Yering
Phone: +61 3 9237 3333

Open:
Dinner - every evening from 6.30pm
Lunch - Saturday and Sunday from 12pm - 3pm

Web

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Dinner @ Interlude

It's taken much longer than we had planned to return to Interlude and with the end of the financial year approaching, why not celebrate it in style.

The photos are not the best, low lighting is the culprit so I can only say that if you want to see the full glory of the food - head off to interlude and experience it for yourself.

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Olive Our Twist
NV Manzanilla Sanluca de Barrameda, Barbadillo "Solear"

We tasted this dish as part of the Capaldi dinner here - this is a starter that is full of strong flavours, the salty robustness of olives and anchovies team with the rich sweet notes of roasted capsicum and olive oil toffee shards. This is a dish to not only grab hold of your taste buds, but slap them around and make sure that they won't be missing any nuances from the dishes to follow.

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Yam Chowder, Smoked Tofu, Char Grilled Squid
2006 Kabinett Riesling, Selbach-Oster

At the base of the bowl in a piece of smoked tofu - the tofu is actually made in-house and does a great job of being a flavour carrier. The chowder is silky and thick and is complimented by the tender squid.

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Fish out of Water
2006 Rias Baixas Albarino Lusco do Mino

With this next dish you get the chef himself coming out to pour the broth and explain the components. A separate bowl of "fish food" comes with this and it's a mix of wakame and flavourings that you get to sprinkle over your broth.

Wrapped around the breadstick straw is whiting which has been seared.

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It is a fun dish as you use the straw to draw up the broth and even if you take bites off the fish end it doesn't affect its ability to work as a straw.

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Rabbit, Lentis, Liquorice Beignets
2006 VDP Collines Rhondaniennes, Syrah Y Cuilleron "Sybel"

Slices of gently cooked rabbit are placed amongst two liquorice beignets - the jelly set into the base of the bowl just dissolves in the heat of your mouth, filling it with the flavour. The final touch is the mustard which just cleans the palate.

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Oyster, Horseradish, Passionfruit - Inspired by the Fat Duck
2006 Toscana, Teruzzi & Puthod "Terre di Tufi"

A most interesting dish - the passionfruit walks on that fine line of tartness but never crosses, it's pulled back into place with the horseradish shards and the salty creamyiness of the oyster. Basil seeds are also used to mimic the passionfruit seeds.


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Blue Eye, cooked in Roast Chicken Jelly with Trimmings
2005 Pyrenees Chardonnay Dalwhinnie Moonambel

Part of the trimmings are real baby asparagus of the type you just never see in the markets - there's also some fresh chanterelles and baby carrot. The blue eye is surrounded in a roast chicken flavoured jelly which works wonderfully with the fish - the jelly also has a low melting point to dissolve in your mouth.

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Lamb, Coffee, Redcurrant, Fennel
2004 Rioja Palacio Remondo "La Montessa"

There are two types of lamb here - the lamb sirloin and a slow cooked lamb neck, the coffee takes its place in a coffee couscous.

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Rhubarb, Rosewater
2007 Barossa Valley, Tobreck "The Bothie"

The pre-dessert is a study in pink - two quenelles of ice cream, the darker one at the bottom is rhubarb ice cream, the lighter one is a delicate rosewater ice cream. Rosewater can be a bit overpowering but the innate tartness of the rhubarb helps to pull in the rosewater.

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Chestnut, Hazelnut, Rosemary, Gianduja
2001 Wachau Auslese Gruner Velrliner, Weingur Knoll

One of my favourite desserts - hazelnut, chocolate and the haunting flavour of rosemary, certainly not a herb you'd usually associate with a dessert but it works so well here.

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Chocolate, Beetroot, Coffee, Pannacotta
NV Muscat Campbells

Ever since I first tasted beetroot jellies back in Fenix, I was a convert to beetroot being used in dessert and this dish keeps me firmly in the beetroot camp.


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Banana, Golden Syrup, Coconut, Pinenuts
2003 Sauternes, Chateau Roumieur-Lacoste "Leon Dubourdieu"

It's the coconut that brings a lovely freshness to this final dish of the evening.

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To finish a selection of petit fours.

It's been another fascinating evening with dishes that satisfy all the senses - they can challenge orthodoxy but they can also bring a touch of whimsy to the table. Each plate is a study that shows not only the quality of the ingredient but the quality and care of the people in the kitchen and those on the floor.


The details:

Interlude
211 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy
Phone: 9415 7300

Open:
Lunch: Tuesday to Friday 12-3pm
Dinner: Monday to Saturday 6.30pm to late

web:
www.interlude.com.au

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Lunch @ Pizza e Vino

Luca Lorusso, the man behind Cafe Latte has opened a more casual spot just a few doors down from the cafe called Pizza e Vino.

Table decoration is fairly basic with the menu stamped on the placemats - a small selection of daily specials compliment the menu.

We decide to start with a pizza to share:

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Pizza with Potato, Sage and Rosemary

Simply cut into four, this really is the type of pizza you expect to find in Italy. Simple, pure flavours with a thin base.

For mains:

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I have the Pappardelle with Duck Ragú - the pasta was very good but I would have liked a little more depth of flavour in the duck ragú, the sauce needed to be cooked for a little longer.

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Paalo has one of the specials - a wine marinated lamb shoulder with potatoes and rosemary. A hearty dish, the lamb perfectly tender.

Onto dessert:

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Paalo goes it alone with the Tiramisu - it's a good version and although it looks like a large serve it's quite light.

The details:

Pizza e Vino
517 Malvern Road, Toorak

Phone: 03 9826 8815

Open:
Tuesday - Sunday: Noon - 3pm; 5.30pm - 10pm

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Lunch @ La Luna Bistro

It's been a while so we're heading back to La Luna for lunch.

For starters:

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I have the Confit Duck, Mushroom and Goat Cheese Filo Tart served on endive, roasted red pepper and semi-dried tomato

This is a most impressive dish - the filling was really thick and unctuous and chock full of flavour - the salad providing a pleasant balance.

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Paalo had the Lamb Sausages with potato aioli and a parsley and red onion salad

A good chunky grind, moist and still a little pink - they ticked all the right boxes for Paalo, with the jus proving to be utterly irresistible.

Onto mains:


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I have the Crackling wrapped roll of Roast Pork, Tuscan style cabbage and Potato Puree

This was a thick slice of roast pork - the crackling cooked to perfection - not too crisp that it shatters, not too soft that its just too chewy.

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Paalo has the Rump with mash, roasted swiss brown mushroom and red wine jus - ordered rare, it came out as requested.

For dessert, we decide to have

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the Mezze for Two

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Mandarin Sorbet, Creme Brulee, Lemon Curd with Strawberries, Brownies, Almond Bread with Saffron Ice-cream and Amaretto Ice-cream and Coffee Pannacotta

It may well be winter, but I just loved the flavour of that mandarin sorbet.


The details:
La Luna Bistro
320 Rathdowne Street, North Carlton

Phone: 03 9349 4888

Open:
Lunch: Tuesday - Friday: noon-3pm
Dinner: Tuesday - Sunday: 6pm - 10pm
Brunch: Saturday - Sunday: 11am - 3pm

Web:
www.lalunabistro.com.au

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

Dinner @ Charcoal Grill on The Hill

Paalo was channeling his inner carnivore and decided he'd like to have some beef for dinner - as none was in the fridge, he suddenly remembered that we hadn't been to Charcoal Grill on The Hill for want seems like an eternity - so with an ideal opportunity arising we promptly headed off.

Besides the good beef, this place is equally as well known for its wine list. Dejan Derbogosijan has a passion for wine and maintains a massive cellar and on the night we dined, Phillip Jones from Bass Phillip was hosting a wine dinner upstairs.

Tonight we'll be enjoying our meal with an excellent Italian - a 1993 Flaccianello della Pieve.

Menu wise - this is a place for beef lovers - you can get chicken breast though I'd be prone to say why bother. There's excellent grass feed eye fillet, sirloin, porterhouse and rump as well as some wagyu versions of same. The standard main serve is 300 grams but you can request larger - the menu also lists the "meat eating champions" - I cannot believe one person ate over 3 kilos of sirloin in one siting!

To begin:

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Paalo has the chevapi sausage - 3 fat fingers of their speciality sausage - roughly minced it remains moist on the inside with a good level of spice - the simplest of presentation but the flavour speaks for itself.

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I have the duck sausage - it's actually a lot fluffier than I had imagined and it is served with Broccolini that have also been grilled.

Onto mains

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We both opt to have the sirloin - cooked rare and it is served with bowls of fries and vinegared coleslaw.

As we are eating, I ask Paalo if he think he could eat 10 of these to try for the record. He sadly conceeds that he couldn't and I really don't know how anyone could.

Our steaks were perfectly prepared - coming off the grill as we ordered, wonderfully rare.

After mains, the waiters come around with the cheeseboard to tempt the diners - more often than not they are successful. I think being able to see the cheese certainly is a great enticement to have it.

Naturally enough, we don't need too much enticement to have cheese and we make a selection of 3 from the 9 or so on offer

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a French washed rind, Gorgonzola dolce and a French camembert

For dessert

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Paalo has the Sticky date pudding

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and I have the lemon and lime tart with brûlée topping


If you are in the mood for some really good red wine and top-quality steak then Charcoal Grill on The Hill is a place you should visit.

The details:
Charcoal Grill on The Hill
289 High Street, Kew

Phone: 03 9853 7535

Open:
Friday: 12 - 3pm
Monday - Saturday: 6pm - 11pm

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Lunch @ Tea Rooms of Yarck

It was a spur of a moment decision but Paalo likes to do spur of the moment things and as he does the driving, we're off to Yarck for lunch at the Tea Rooms of Yarck.

Unfortunately our estimated 2 hour drive turned out to be more like 2 and a half hour drive - mental note made - do spur of the moment things earlier in the morning!

The Tea Rooms are owned by Pietro Porcu who also runs Da Noi here in Melbourne.

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The Tea Rooms are housed in what looks like a normal country house of the area. You can order a la carte or you can leave it up to the Chef and enjoy a degustation. No surprise really but we opt for the degustation complete with wine matches.

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We begin with glasses of Bellussi Prosecco

The first dish

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is a simple Mixed Mushroom Pizza - this is probably the closest we've gotten to a real Italian pizza - misshaped with an extremely thin base, topped sparingly - we get misty eyed with memories of Rome over it.


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Next up:

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A trio of dishes


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Pheasant Salad

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a blurry photo of pork terrine

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and pepperonata - this tastes like my mother made it and once again I'm wondering why I don't make it that much anymore.

Two more dishes join the table:

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red wine marinated octopus - that is a carrot sitting atop the octopus pieces and it has actually absorbed but the flavour and texture of the octopus. The octopus is a pleasure to eat - tender, not at all rubbery.

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house-cured trout with herbed curd quenelle

Onto the pasta course:

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Gnocchi with Mushrooms - while the gnocchi are bigger than I'm used to they are tender and taste of potato so I'm very pleased.

Next course - seafood

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Seafood Platter - Crab, mussels, baby octopus, vongole in a spicy rich tomato broth

This dish certainly had the heads of the other patrons turning - and for very good reason too.

Last savoury course - pork

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Pork Ragù with caramelised fennel and Polenta

It takes time to make a ragù as good as this - the pork was full of flavour, deeply coloured, dense and rich.

By this stage we were the only ones left in the restaurant so the staff started setting up a table so they could have their meal - while we enjoyed our desserts

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a lovely set of three

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pastry cream filled profiteroles with chocolate sauce and strawberries


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quince and chocolate cake with red wine poached pear

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and a semifreddo

To end the meal, coffee and these biscotti

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The drive home took a little longer as we were caught in this

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there were emergency vehicles and what looked like diversions but by the time we got moving again we actually couldn't see any trace of what had caused the delay.

When comparing Da Noi to Tea Rooms, we both agreed that we enjoyed the Tea Rooms more - while the food is similar the atmosphere is more conducive to the enjoyment of the meal. It's a bit of a drive but the destination is more than worth it.

The details:

Tea Rooms of Yarck
6585 Maroonday Hwy, Yarck

Phone: 03 5773 4233

Open:
Friday: 5.30pm-11pm
Saturday-Sunday: 12pm - late

Thursday, June 12, 2008

Dinner @ Les Boucheries Parisiennes

It certainly was a very pleasant surprise to receive a message from ex-Fenix manager Matt last week, letting us know that he was now working at Les Boucheries Parisiennes. Matt was a most genial host that would always be guaranteed to find some really interesting wine matches for our degustation meals, so armed with that information, we've scurried along for dinner - as a special treat, the Chef has prepared a degustation meal for us as well!

Les Boucheries Parisiennes opened in 2005 and is housed in what used to be Hagger's and is owned by the man behind Laurent Boulangerie - so it's not that surprising that the bread was very good. It's brought to the table, warm from the oven, housed in a string tied flour sack.


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Onto the meal:

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Rabbit and Duck terrine with baby carrot and beans with a portobello mushroom dressing

A light and fresh start to the meal - Paalo thought that it was very good but was served a touch on the too cold side.

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French Onion Soup with Gruyere Toastie
I do love these Villeroy & Boch cups and what a lovely way to serve this deliciously rich soup. A classic dish.

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Pan-seared Scallops on Mushroom Risotto with truffle beurre noisette

Sounds simple but this was a stunning dish - 3 perfectly cooked scallops sat on an equally perfect risotto - the scallops seared on one side leaving the inner flesh wonderfully translucent. The sweetness of the scallops seemed to be magnified by the creamy risotto and the earthy elements of the mushroom and truffle.

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Venison with parsnip puree, sautéed baby spinach and mushroom raviolo

The venison was served as thick slices - cooked rare, it was deliciously tender. As I seem to keep asking myself when I eat venison, why don't I cook venison at home? It's a great meat and when served like this, shows you just how good it is.

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Cheese came next - an excellent selection of 5, served at the correct temperature and accompanied by quince paste and two types of bread.

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Coffee Pannacotta, buttermilk foam with freshly cooked doughnuts

The doughnuts are another legacy from Laurent and they are the lightest and softest examples we've ever tasted - these are deep fried clouds of fluff.

Paalo though that the pannacotta wasn't quite as creamy as he likes but I thought the buttermilk just gave it an interesting edge.

I suppose one good thing that has come out of the ashes of Fenix is that we've been forced to try new places and I'm sure we will be returning to Les Boucheries very soon.

The details:
Les Boucheries Parisiennes
268 Toorak Road, South Yarra

Phone: (03) 8256 1636

Open:
Lunch - Tuesday to Sunday: 12pm to 2.30pm
Dinner - Tuesday to Saturday: 6pm to late

Web:
www.lesboucheries.com.au

Monday, June 09, 2008

Lunch @ The Press Club

For the Queen's birthday holiday itself we've decided to enjoy a leisurely lunch at The Press Club and we've opted to try out their special Lunch Kerasma menu.

It begins with
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Saganaki Martini

Next is an assortment of hot and cold tastes

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marinated white anchovies, paprika marinated octopus, dolmades, marinated assorted olives, pickled cabbage and

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school prawns served with a spiced honey sauce


When we're almost finished with these - two hot dishes come out

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scallops on the half shell with skordalia and toasted pistachio crumbs

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vine leaf wrapped par boned quail served on a quasi tartare like sauce. They are surrounded by jellied saffron cubes and an assortment of baby vegetables - fennel, leek, carrot that have been treated with a saffron infused sauce. Paalo rates this as "the best quail" he's ever eaten!

Onto the last of the savoury dishes

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On the top row:
roasted lemon potatoes, chicken cooked on the spit served on white bean skordalia, sautéed garfish fillets
On the bottom row:
couscous with sultanas and almonds, beetroot tzatziki, pickled fennel, "greek salad-horiatiki"

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slow cooked goat - cooked for something like 14 hours - the meat just fell apart.

If that wasn't enough - there's still dessert!

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At the front is an incredible rich chocolate ganache tart with pistachio ice-cream - this is the ultimate chocolate and pistachio experience. In the martini glass is a helleniko kafe (coffee) pannacotta topped with metaxa brandy jelly, next to which is a bowl of Loukoumades (honey soaked Greek donuts) and an ouzo creme caramel.


We've been suitably impressed with our previous experiences here but today they just seemed to have gone above and beyond the call of duty - the whole philosophy behind the Kerasma menu is to be spoiled and indeed we were.

The details:

The Press Club Restaurant and Bar
72 Flinders Street
Melbourne
Phone: 03 9677 9677

Open:
Lunch: Monday - Friday and Sunday
Dinner: Monday - Sunday

web
www.pressclub.com.au

Saturday, June 07, 2008

Dinner @ Church Street Enoteca

In the spirit of the long weekend, we're off to celebrate at Church Street Enoteca.

Be begin with a treat from the kitchen in the form of their Prosciutto and Salami plate

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It's impossible to pick a favourite but I will single out the wagyu beef bresaola made in-house.

Onto starters

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I have one of the specials of the day - soft shell crab served with avocado puree and salt pickled cucumber ribbons, topped with micro greens including coriander shoots. A lot of times soft shell crab can come to the table a bit limp - the crispness disappearing somewhere between the time it was cooked and the time it ended up in front of you. This, I must say, was wonderfully crisp while still retaining the juiciness of its flesh.

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Paalo has the Carpaccio of peppered Hahndorf venison, served with beetroot sorbetto, horseradish cream and beetroot shoots. Another dish that isn't just visually appealing but tastes as good as it looks.

For mains:

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I have the Roasted duck breast served with duck leg and chestnut agnolotti and celeriac puree.
The celeriac puree is silken, incredibly smooth while the duck breast is moist and perfectly pink.

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Paalo has the Berkshire Black pork rib served with parsnip cream, crumbed stuffed artichoke and a salad of shredded fennel and apple. The parsnip cream had those same silken characteristics - it's almost sinfully good.

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as a side, we couldn't go past the steamed beans served with Persian fetta and toasted almonds

For desserts:

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I have the crema strappazzata - cinnamon custard, caramelised apple puree, green apple sorbetto and apple crisps. I think that this dish was missing something solid in the form of a buttery biscuit type component - something like a polvoron.

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Paalo has the Raspberry Soufflé - served with a raspberry sauce and vanilla bean ice-cream.





The details:
Church Street Enoteca
527 Church Street, Richmond

Phone: 9428 7898

Restaurant Open:
Lunch: Monday-Friday 12-3pm
Dinner: Monday-Saturday 6pm to late

Web:
www.churchstenoteca.com.au

Lunch @ Movida

I thought that maybe Saturday lunch would be a good time to try out Movida without the crowds - unfortunately with the public holiday, it wasn't to be. We did manage to snag a seat in the bar area.

We begin with three Tapa

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Pimiento de Piquillo - Piquillo pepper filled with crab and potato

A delicious way to start but I would have loved to have tried some of that aoili - unfortunately the plate was whisked away mid bite.

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Vieria, jamon y espuma - Half shell scallop oven baked with jamon and potato foam. Scallops were perfectly cooked, still retaining that translucent quality.

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the bread selection

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Croqueta - fried silky croquette flavoured with mushrooms. Easily the best example of this dish we've ever had - I absolutely lovely the rich porcini flavours

We then ordered 3 Racion

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Cecina - air cured wagyu beef thinly sliced with truffle foam and poached egg. If you only ate this dish you would leave perfectly satisfied - it really is that good.


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Carillera de buey -Slowly braised beef cheek in Pedro Ximenez on cauliflower puree. Surprisingly, although the beef was extremely tender and well-cooked, its flavour was overpowered by the cauliflower. You can't really complain because the cauliflower puree was unbelievable tasty.

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Patatas a la pobre - poor man's potatoes - slow cooked nicola potatoes with peppers in olive oil. A simple dish with exquisite, developed flavours.


While there are no complaints about the food I would have to say that the service lets it down - at best you would call it indifferent.

The details:

Movida
1 Hosier Lane
Melbourne

Phone:(03) 9663 3038

Open: Daily - noon to late

Web:
www.movida.com.au

Thursday, June 05, 2008

Dinner @ Estivo

Another re-visit - are we becoming predictable? This time we head to Kew and Estivo.

For starters:

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Paalo has the Cannellini Bean and Truffle Soup - it's rare that Paalo orders legumes but the lure of truffle won over. For a person that isn't too fond of beans he really does enjoy the soup and not just for the truffles.

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I have the Roasted Scallops with prosciutto and pomegranate - I am particularly impressed with the scallops, cooked perfectly they still retain a translucent character.


For mains:

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Paalo has the venison loin with soft polenta - a simple dish but cooked well - a lovely piece of loin, still pink served with a fluffy mould of soft cheesy polenta. A dish that welcomes you to winter.

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I have the eye fillet on potato fondant with roasted beetroot and shallots, served with beetroot reduction. Paalo enjoyed this dish last time so I thought I'd try it. The eye fillet came out as requested - rare. Tender and juicy - it was a well executed dish.


For dessert

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Paalo has the chocolate tart with chocolate and pistachio ice-cream and poached pear.


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I have the Nougatine with Persian fairy floss and citrus salad


The details:
Estivo
300 High Street, Kew
Phone: 9853 1727

Open:
Tuesday - Friday: 12pm - 3.30pm
Tuesday - Sunday: 6pm - 10pm